A step-up or boost module allows you to increase the volts. An example can be a DIY a power supply, the input can be 12V and with this module, the output can be raised to 12-80V adjustable. With this unit, you can adjust both volts and amps.
600W Step-up boost power module spec: Input voltage: 12V-60V Input Current: Maximum input current 15A Output voltage: 12V-80V continuously adjustable Output Current: Maximum output current 10A Output Power: P = effective power input voltage V * 10A Conversion efficiency: Up to 95% (input voltage, current; affect the output voltage, current conversion efficiency) Short circuit protection: fuse Installation size: 73 * 51mm
You want to meet BART, he will help you become an electronics maker
There is a missing ingredient in most electronic kits…..
an actual product! Something completed that can be played with, something that can be improved and build upon even after training. Something like BART.
Electronic kits consist of lots of components but how do all this work together? How can you mix and match to create all kinds of cool stuff?
And that is the secret to become truly a master project maker – LEARNING HOW ALL THESE INDIVIDUAL PARTS WORK IS STEP 1 AND THEN STEP 2 IS TO LEARN HOW TO GET THEM TO WORK TOGETHER TO CREATE AWESOME FINAL PROJECTS.
Each and every component on this robot chassis board will be covered in detail, you will learn about the electronics and the programming of it. To keep things easy we put most components and IC’s on the board already, you still will have to connect things like the motors, sensor boards and ultrasonic sensors to the main PCB chassis. You will also have to hook up the line sensor and RGB LED sensor board. Its a learning experience in itself but its fun.
There is one thing you do not want to be permanently fixed onto the robot chassis though, and that is your microcontroller development board.
The simple reason is that you will want to build other things later on with your Arduino Uno or Arduino Mega microcontroller. With our robot, your microcontroller board can simply be unplugged from your robot chassis and used for other projects.
We included some components on your robot chassis you will not normally find on a robot like an LDR, buttons and potentiometers – we have good reasons for this. We are not just teaching you about robots we also teach you about other non-robot electronic and programming principles. It just so happens that all these extras enhance your robot and you are learning more than you would with just the basics as you find in some robot kits. The light-sensitive sensor, for example, can be used to switch on your robot’s lights when it gets dark, the buttons can put your robot in different modes like line tracking, obstacle avoidance and IR remote control modes.
Did you catch all that?
This is not just a robot you can program, it is a full electronics and programming course that teaches you step by step robotics, electronics and programming. BART is much much more than just about building a robot and programming it.
And as a final note, this robot kit is expandable with blue-tooth, Wifi and NRF (Radio Frequency that allows you to control your robot 100 meters away).
To run an Arduino on battery power requires 2 things:
First, you need to sort out the hardware because even if you put your Arduino to sleep (we will look at that soon) it is only the Atmel chip that will sleep, the rest of the components like power led, regulators and so on will still be very much alive
Next, you can programmatically put the Arduino into different kinds of sleep modes that will drop the power consumption to μA’s
First sort the hardware power consumption.
When you want to use a battery source like a coin cell, the Uno is not an option it consumes on average 48mA without sensors and so on connected to it. Even a 9V will not last a day.
Our skeleton Duino performs much better at about 30mA and is already much better at about 40% energy saving compared to the Uno but there is more we can do…..
We created the Diet Duino to bring this down even lower to 16mA, that is about a 1/3 of the consumption of an Arduino Uno.
We accomplish this by removing the power led (still a led on pin 13 if you want to see a power led – but make it blink slowly on the off and very quick on the on cycle so it uses as little power as possible) and most importantly, we use a rather expensive imported voltage regulator that is VERY energy efficient.
A rule of thumb: The nearer your battery voltage are to the 3.3V regulator voltage the fewer uAmps it will consume.
Now let the Atmega chip go to sleep wherever possible.
When be put the Diet Duino into sleep mode it is too low to measure, We can measure up to around 20 μA but looking at the only thing that consumes power – the voltage regulator we look at about 4uA.
Some perspective on sleep mode.
When you put an Arduino in sleep mode it does not take long for it to go to sleep or to wake up, it happens in milliseconds. This means that you can already replace all your normal Delay calls in your Arduino with “real sleep” commands with a very cool Arduino library that you can find here: Low-Power library from Rocketscream
It is very easy to use and you will find lots of information from the link above. The statement LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_8S, ADC_OFF, BOD_OFF); puts the MCU in SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN for 16 ms to 8 s, depending on the first argument. It disables the ADC and the BOD. Power-down sleep means that all chip functions are disabled till the next interrupt. Further, the external oscillator is stopped. Only the level interrupts on INT1 and INT2, pin change interrupts, TWI/I2C address match, or the WDT, if enabled, can wake the MCU up. So with the single statement, you will minimize energy consumption to 3 uA. If you read the library documentation you will find lots of other settings to use.
To give you an example: If you measure temperature once ever 1 minute, the measurement takes maybe 1 second, that means your Arduino can sleep for 56 seconds.
In conclusion, with the Diet Duino and some basic programming, you can get over a year on one coin cell.